{"id":9552,"date":"2024-03-13T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-03-13T04:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.restaurantscanada.org\/menu\/chef-tawnya-brant-on-canadian-food-entrepreneurship\/"},"modified":"2026-10-20T13:26:56","modified_gmt":"2026-10-20T17:26:56","slug":"chef-tawnya-brant-on-canadian-food-entrepreneurship","status":"publish","type":"menu","link":"https:\/\/www.restaurantscanada.org\/fr\/menu\/chef-tawnya-brant-on-canadian-food-entrepreneurship\/","title":{"rendered":"Chef Tawnya Brant on Canadian Food & Entrepreneurship"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Chef Tawnya Brant is a Canadian culinary rising star, an entrepreneur, a devoted mom and the plainspoken, straight-up cool sister you always wished you had. Even as she balances motherhood, Yaw\u00e9kon, her Haudenosaunee fusion restaurant in Ontario\u2019s Six Nations of the Grand River Territory, and a hectic travel shooting and post-production schedule for her upcoming series on Aboriginal Peoples Television Network (APTN), she finds time to chat about life, love and a few of the most important topics on her radar: restaurants, kids\u2019 nutrition and Canadian food.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Photo courtesy of Elizabeth Hoover<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

MM: Watching from the sidelines, it would seem your life and career have expanded significantly over the past couple of years. What\u2019s been going on?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019re putting the finishing touches on the first season of a new series for APTN, tentatively titled One Dish One Spoon, which is scheduled to launch in early 2024. I\u2019m the host, and it\u2019s based around Six Nations featuring local people doing food sovereignty work who don\u2019t necessarily get the recognition they deserve. We called it that specifically because the The Dish with One Spoon Wampum belt, which is the area where we live in southern Ontario. The network was thinking of changing the name for the second season because of how much the series direction has changed, but we\u2019ll see.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

In season one, my sister and I set out to answer the question: \u201cWhy should I care about Indigenous issues?\u201d There\u2019s a disconnect between everyday Canadians and Indigenous people and we are trying to bridge the gap. I want everyday Canadians to know they were thought of in the making of this type of series, and that we know things are never going to go back to the way they were\u2014we never even said we wanted them to. We have the world we\u2019re in, and we have to live with each other. We\u2019re at a time now where we have to work together. We don\u2019t have a choice because we\u2019re in too desperate a state. More desperate than I think most people realize. This is a big part of why Canadians should care about First Nations and Indigenous issues.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We need to connect and repair our food systems. We need to look at genetically modified foods and realize our environment is not going to sustain their growth. Are we going to live a life where all food is grown inside warehouses? If food doesn\u2019t grow in sunshine, everything about it is fake, which leads to fake people, right? Our foods are breaking down our bodies. Indigenous people LOVE to say, \u201cfood is medicine\u201d but right now it\u2019s not. If up to 75 per cent of cancer and disease is related to what we put in our mouth every day, that\u2019s a staggering statistic. Our food is making us sick, so how do we fix that?<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019ve noticed that the \u201ccarrot sticks kids\u201d are becoming more the norm. When I work with youth, I see that they\u2019re becoming more aware of what they\u2019re putting in their bodies. Sure, kids love candy, but once they become teenagers and maybe start to play a sport, they\u2019re really starting to think about what they\u2019re eating. I can\u2019t wait to see what they\u2019re like when they get to my age. It\u2019s all connected, from food to mental health in the foodservice industry. Now the general public seems to be having this \u201caha moment\u201d and they\u2019re realizing the advocates for clean eating are right.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We can\u2019t afford to make mistakes at this point. Food\u2019s too expensive, choosing where we\u2019re going to dine is expensive\u2026 I had sticker shock just going to buy food for my kids\u2019 lunches the day before school started. I spent about $160 just on lunch ingredients. If families are spending that kind of money on lunches, that\u2019s a problem and the province needs to look at lunch programs because the nutritional quality just won\u2019t be there.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

MM: What are your plans with Yaw\u00e9kon?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00a0I haven\u2019t reopened Yaw\u00e9kon yet, and I\u2019m considering doing a school lunch program. People just can\u2019t afford it and, in terms of affordability, going out to a restaurant is more and more like it was when my mom was a kid\u2014a luxury. Any person in my mom\u2019s generation can tell you the very first time they went to a restaurant, and what they ate. It\u2019s a memory embedded in their mind.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now, kids don\u2019t want to go anywhere because they\u2019re sick of it. They\u2019ve had the chicken nuggets. It\u2019s all the same damn menu. Many kids just don\u2019t have diversity in their diet. That\u2019s one of the things that really scares me. The province should really look at school lunch programs, and if people have to pay for a lunch program, that\u2019s fine.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Canada is so multicultural, and kids have such different palates. But kids are also adventurous, and if you put them in a room to eat together, they\u2019re more likely to try new things. We need to bring back the community in food and food security. The reality out there right now is shocking. I follow several mom groups on Facebook and an alarming number of moms are saying, \u201cIf there\u2019s not enough for the kids, I just won\u2019t eat today.\u201d They\u2019ll eat a cookie or their kid\u2019s leftover lunch. This is what I\u2019m starting to see, and these are everyday, Canadians who don\u2019t have supports for food.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The minute you don\u2019t have food, you introduce corruption into your society. I think we\u2019re looking down the barrel at that, and people either seem to be okay with it or maybe they just don\u2019t know what to do.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

MM: When it comes to our food system in general, what do you want to see change?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I want to see everyone fed and fed well. In Canada, this is possible, but we\u2019re not doing it in the right way. We\u2019re doing it in the most expensive way possible, and even as restaurant owners we\u2019re being forced to raise our prices all the time.

If you want your business to be here tomorrow, you have to turn a profit, but how much can customers take? We\u2019re seeing that tension with restaurants closing every day. We\u2019re being priced out of the market, from ingredients to takeout packaging. There\u2019s so much that needs to change from the way we\u2019re doing things now.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

They tell us, \u201cOh, you\u2019re not allowed to use certain takeout containers anymore.\u201d Like it\u2019s no big deal. You just shifted how half of Canadians eat dinner. It\u2019s just not that simple. In Europe or Indonesia, packaging is minimal and recyclable, but we don\u2019t even fully understand the concept or how it\u2019s done. In developing countries, food is served on a piece of paper or you stand there and eat it at a street food booth and return the plate. That\u2019s where this is going, which will mean new challenges for the next generation of restaurants and chefs. I\u2019m not sure they\u2019re thinking that way yet or starting to think about training for that shift.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

MM: You\u2019ve travelled extensively and have been exposed to many food systems. What aspects of the Canadian system do you feel are unique and valuable?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We have fresh foods and nearly everything we want available in grocery stores every day. I\u2019m not sure how many people know what a luxury that is. There are a lot of places where that isn\u2019t the case, including some areas in this country. We\u2019ve ridden high for so long, but we\u2019re seeing the repercussions now. Nutrition, delivery and selection are there for us, but we need to work together to preserve and protect that. Nobody wants to change anything\u2014we like things the way they are\u2014they\u2019re fine, right? The question is really whether we\u2019re going to be forced to change it, and do we have time. We\u2019re all stressed out, worried about bills and life and it\u2019s hard to bleed for every cause. But, if everyone took action on one issue or interest that is important to them, we\u2019d be in a much better state right now.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The pandemic was a good preview of what I\u2019m talking about. We had supply shortages and every time you went to the grocery store, food cost more than the week before. Things that were $1.00 went up to $2.00 during the pandemic. Those same items are $4.00 now.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

MM: What role do you feel restaurants and culinarians can play in this economy? <\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can\u2019t eat at a restaurant every day, but you can connect people with chefs. If you look at TikTok, the obsession with food is obvious, but are you going to make them? Probably not.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I think there\u2019s role chefs can play online to connect with kids and encourage them to appreciate food, try new things and help bring back the simplicity of food. We\u2019ve spent so much time on making food unique, different and new, but we should be asking how we get back to eating what we need. That doesn\u2019t always have to be simple, but it can be simple. Food is for everybody.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00a0MM: How would you define Canadian cuisine?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I don\u2019t know that we have a cuisine so much as we have regional foods. Those regional foods are typically developed from the ethnicity of the people who first arrived in the area.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you go up north, there are a lot of Hungarians so you\u2019re going to see cabbage rolls and shepherd\u2019s pies and familiar family foods. In Atlantic Canada, there\u2019s a ridiculous amount of poutine and the west coast it\u2019s everything salmon. It\u2019s like adding Europe and the Middle East together and asking, \u201cWhat is your cuisine?\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019re finally at a place and time where people are considering Indigenous cuisine within the mix. Over 70 per cent of the food eaten in the world today was originally harvested by Indigenous people from North and South America, which means a lot of the foods we\u2019re eating around the world are Indigenous. Within 60 years of its discovery, corn became one of China\u2019s largest exports. Indigenous people have never really been credited as stewards of these foods since time immemorial, because we were \u201cjust savages\u201d, stupid little Indians running around in the trees who didn\u2019t know anything. The reality is, the Haudenosaunee gave the world democracy. We thought about the environment, we thought about each other, we thought about creation, we thought about the future\u2014all of these things were considered. We also had caches with 10 years of food. Most people can\u2019t survive three days. What the hell are we working on so hard?<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Photo courtesy of Denneil Annette<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

MM: What aspects of food, and even the approach to food, can restaurateurs and consumers learn from the Indigenous community?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

To start, Indigenous people still remember what it\u2019s like to be poor. White people were the first to be colonized, and we\u2019re the most recent over the scheme of about 700 years. I would challenge restaurants to take french fries off their kids\u2019 menu and show me something that\u2019s not a chicken nugget, pizza, spaghetti or macaroni and cheese. That\u2019s about 95 per cent of children\u2019s menus in this country. When you ask kids where they want to eat, they really don\u2019t care because it\u2019s going to be the same damn menu wherever they go. Our kids deserve better than that, and they need better than that. It\u2019s a quick solve for restaurants because they need cheaper food, but we\u2019re so much better than that. You can get stuck in that grind and lose your passion for food\u2014that\u2019s common in the industry. Having my own restaurant, I didn\u2019t want to get stuck in that, and that turned into a seasonal, daily menu, but that\u2019s not reality for many businesses.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sometimes we are okay with being complacent in the restaurant industry. We start to stick to what we know works because we can\u2019t afford to stick our necks out. Profit margins are
paper-thin, if they\u2019re even there at all. Everybody wants to be paid more, and they need more to live, so we charge more. There are so many things to worry about, we aren\u2019t worried about our $4 menu item. It\u2019s such a rat race in the industry right now.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Being a chef or an operator is a passion, but we\u2019re all suckers for punishment too. There aren\u2019t any clear answers right now, but I feel we\u2019re just not at the \u201canswers part\u201d yet. We\u2019re still in the discussion phase. We\u2019re identifying the problems and thinking about where we\u2019re going. There has to be some way forward. I\u2019d love to see incubators where chefs and owners can share information and ideas. Where we can look for ways to be better and still meet the needs of our customers.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When Yaw\u00e9kon first opened, we served only Indigenous foods, but that wasn\u2019t sustainable. I knew it wasn\u2019t. Almost every customer comes in with some dietary restrictions. It seems like the world is moving toward gluten-or yeast-free diets, but those are our least expensive fillers. We have to get out of the state of being \u201cmindless eaters\u201d and being more deliberate and thoughtful of others.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

On Six Nations, we\u2019re taught to live communally. We live in villages of hundreds and thousands of people. You\u2019re thought to think of yourself last. You think of your family, your clan, your nation, your community and only then do you think of yourself. One thing you\u2019ll see with Indigenous business, one of the first things they think about when they open is who they\u2019re going to donate money to. I listen as a business owner and I think the reality is that you\u2019re going to be donating to your business. Young entrepreneurs should look at charity five years down the road.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s been a lot of change for me. I\u2019m an entrepreneur and I love business. I love talking about businesses and seeing them grow and improve. For years, my job was to go into restaurants and fix problems. It really sucked when I opened my own restaurant and I couldn\u2019t fix a lot of my own problems. I couldn\u2019t find enough people in my community who were passionate about our food. It\u2019s important to me that this food knowledge goes back into my community first, because it needs to. Working with \u201cendangered foods\u201d isn\u2019t easy because you don\u2019t know what you\u2019re going to have day to day. Seasonal is beautiful and I still think it\u2019s worth serving and that it\u2019s worth that struggle and fight to have it. Knowing now how many people relied on our food made it a really hard decision to close down for the summer. I had to think about it, talk to everyone and their grandmother about it and cry about it, but it was knowing how many elderly people are served by our shop and the only other option they had in our community because they\u2019re gluten-free is french fries.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

That was the only other option they had in our community. I felt like sh*t, but the reality is I have a career outside of that shop. I thought, at two and a half years in it could run on its own, but that\u2019s not what happened. It\u2019s really hard in a community where you can sit in another shop an get paid $20 an hour; where you can work on your bead work or do whatever you want. It\u2019s a real challenge to find people who want to work that hard. Many of us in this industry are suckers for punishment.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I make my money catering and that\u2019s what\u2019s been keeping the ship afloat. I don\u2019t like doing things that don\u2019t make money, right? I volunteer enough of my time, so if it\u2019s not working, it\u2019s not working. Breaking even doesn\u2019t work for me. If everything I\u2019m doing is supported by just one thing, then that\u2019s where I need to focus my time and effort.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I want my community to have a daily option, but does that mean I go to other restaurants and ask if they\u2019d do a different menu? We\u2019re in the realm of \u201cI don\u2019t know,\u201d and the answers are going to be different for everybody. I think chefs and business owners have been feeling that way for a few years now and they\u2019re just happy if their doors are still open, and if they\u2019re turning a profit, even better. Just look at the lengths people are going to to \u201cbe different.\u201d Like square croissants\u2026 I admit it, I want to see a square croissant, but is that something I\u2019m going to have every day? Probably not.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

MM: When you opened, did you set out to make Yaw\u00e9kon different? What lessons have you learned along the way? <\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The difference between my restaurant and every other Indigenous restaurant you see is that mine\u2019s the only one on Territory. I\u2019m feeding the community and the people; the ladies who want salads at the Band Office every day. I\u2019m not feeding people who are looking for some kind of Fear Factor experience. I\u2019m balancing the familiar routines of everyday lunch with people who want traditional foods for their health and the tourists who want to try Indigenous foods. Other Indigenous restaurants are located in big cities, inside museums or other tourism-based places. That\u2019s what makes Yaw\u00e9kon different. We\u2019re a small, shoebox of a shop with no stability in the foods I have access to. With all the challenges in this industry, my business shouldn\u2019t exist, but it does. It\u2019s because I\u2019m willing to take on that personal challenge, but I\u2019ve learned a lot.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

And \u201clocation, location, location\u201d is definitely a thing. It\u2019s part of Yaw\u00e9kon\u2019s success. We\u2019re located in a main plaza in the middle of Ohsweken in the midst of about 900 people working Band Council jobs. Being centralized in a local area like that is huge, and my business style wouldn\u2019t work anywhere else without my specific skillset.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I want to reopen, but not necessarily in the same capacity as before. I know now that if I have to work with unskilled workers, I have to make stations and train on those stations to manage turnover. That\u2019s heartbreaking for me, because I wanted to mentor people and other Indigenous chefs. When I started to talk about opening Yaw\u00e9kon, I got all these emails from people wanting to train, and I was worried because I can only have three in the kitchen or we\u2019d be banging into each other. I didn\u2019t get a single message back from those people when I actually did open. They lived in communities across Canada and would have had to move hours and hours away, mostly for the love of it, as we couldn\u2019t pay a lot.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the end of the day, if I can find a way to remain a sole proprietor, I\u2019m going to do that.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

MM: What do you think lies ahead on your journey?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019ve been in writer\u2019s meetings all week for the second season on APTN, which has landed in the \u201cdocusoap\u201d category\u2014kind of like a reality series\u2014because it focuses more on me and my sister, family and friends. It\u2019s focused on my entrepreneurship journey and we\u2019re shooting that now.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019ve had hospitals ask me about doing Indigenous cuisine for patients and I would really like to do that. To me, one hospital can open the floodgates to every hospital in the country. If they\u2019re offering halal and kosher, why aren\u2019t they offering Indigenous foods? It\u2019s on their minds, and if they\u2019re approaching me, I want to see if we can do that. I\u2019m looking at larger facilities and impacts. There\u2019s no reason we can\u2019t figure out how to serve hospitals and schools. Even if they\u2019re pre-packaged meals they just need to stick in a convection oven and serve, I think it\u2019s worth looking into.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The truth is, I was never that interested in high-end food, so the fact I did Top Chef Canada is kind of amazing. They asked me for about two years and I kept saying no because I didn\u2019t want to leave my kids for the month of shooting. The next time the opportunity came around, my shop had been open for six or seven months and it was more like, \u201cPlease take me\u2014I\u2019m ready to go away for a little while.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

MM: How does your family feel about participating in the second season of the APTN show?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I think I\u2019ve eased them into it enough so that they\u2019re like, \u201cOkay\u2014just let me know if I need to do anything.\u201d My dad just wants to know if he needs to clean the yard. As long as everybody knows what\u2019s going on they\u2019re generally pretty cool with it. My fiancee\u2019s super supportive, and without him I wouldn\u2019t be able to do what I do and raise our boys. He\u2019s the reason I\u2019m able to have a career and have a family.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the shop\u2019s open it works out perfectly, but right now it\u2019s a little chaotic. We\u2019ve been travelling a lot and just got back from upstate New York. We did a trip to the Mohawk Valley to see my paternal and maternal ancestral villages. It was great to be able to take the boys.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

There\u2019s a Chef Expo in Minneapolis, Minnesota for the Native American Health Conference for about 700 people. They have 14 Indigenous chefs from all over\u2014Hawaii, New Zealand\u2014it\u2019s a big scope. I\u2019m excited to go and see some friends.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

MM: What do you think the future holds for the restaurant industry? What insights can you share with other chefs and foodservice entrepreneurs?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The reality is creeping up on us that sh*t\u2019s going to change whether we like it or not. By the time my kids are my age, food\u2019s not going to look like it does now. Already, kids\u2019 lunches don\u2019t look like they did when I was a child.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

People look at me and say, \u201cOh, I want to be an Indigenous chef.\u201d They have no idea the hell I\u2019ve been through to do what I do. Most people don\u2019t have a mom who\u2019s a Seed Keeper, who\u2019s going to raise them on ancestral foods\u2014who are going to put the work in. It took me 20 years to find the self-confidence to say that I\u2019m a chef out loud. That comes from getting respect from the industry. I questioned myself, yet others graduate from culinary school and have no problem owning that title. Well, if they are, for f**k sakes I am too. You can call me \u201cChef Tawnya\u201d.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Those things are there and they\u2019re real. I don\u2019t like to sugar coat it. You might get a couple of newspaper or online articles, but what are you really doing? There\u2019s a reason you work in a bunch of restaurants before you open your own. You want to see every problem from every angle and learn how you can fix it or even identify it before it happens\u2026 or before you\u2019re bankrupt. There\u2019s a lot to keep track of and it can take you down from behind. You need to be a bit of a sucker for punishment, like to work really hard in 100-degree weather, sweating, lifting 50-pound boxes, knowing that you\u2019re not going to be able to do this in old age\u2014these are the realities of the industry. If you don\u2019t know anything and aren\u2019t contributing to the future of the industry, you have a rough road ahead of you.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

But at the same time, it\u2019s so much fun. And if you love it, you f**king love it.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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IG: @cheftawnyabrant
FB: @cheftawnyabrant<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

cheftawnyabrant.com<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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