{"id":9813,"date":"2025-06-17T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-06-17T04:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.restaurantscanada.org\/menu\/bridging-indigenous-foodways-culinary-leadership-a-conversation-with-chef-chris-commandant\/"},"modified":"2026-10-20T13:41:55","modified_gmt":"2026-10-20T17:41:55","slug":"bridging-indigenous-foodways-culinary-leadership-a-conversation-with-chef-chris-commandant","status":"publish","type":"menu","link":"https:\/\/www.restaurantscanada.org\/fr\/menu\/bridging-indigenous-foodways-culinary-leadership-a-conversation-with-chef-chris-commandant\/","title":{"rendered":"Bridging Indigenous Foodways & Culinary Leadership: A Conversation with Chef Chris Commandant"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Tucked inside the National Arts Centre (NAC) in Ottawa, <\/em>1 Elgin is a culinary stage for Canada\u2019s diverse flavours. With a menu that evolves seasonally and a commitment to locally sourced ingredients, the restaurant offers a refined yet inviting dining experience, making it a must-visit for theatre-goers, food
lovers, and top chefs from across the country. And in the kitchen, Sous Chef Chris Commandant has a lot on his plate.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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A Kanien\u2019keha:ka from the Wahta Mohawks First Nation near Bala, Ontario, Commandant is driven by
a passion for preserving and sharing Indigenous culinary traditions. His work extends beyond the art of cooking\u2014he is deeply engaged in conversations around Indigenous food sovereignty, food security, and traditional cooking methods.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

His classical training enables him to seamlessly blend Haudenosaunee culinary heritage with contemporary techniques, crafting innovative dishes that honour the flavours and stories of his Muskoka terroir. At 1 Elgin, that means pushing boundaries while staying rooted in authenticity\u2014an approach that defines not just his food, but his leadership.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Ontario Director and Secretary of the Indigenous Culinary of Associated Nations (ICAN), Commandant is also a key figure in a movement to elevate Indigenous cuisine on the national stage. He\u2019s not just a chef\u2014he\u2019s a steward of Indigenous foodways, a mentor, and a driving force behind a growing conversation about sustainability, authenticity and the intersection of food and cultural identity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Commandant\u2019s path to becoming a champion of Indigenous cuisine was not one of early intent but rather one of discovery. \u201cI was always hungry as a kid,\u201d he admits. \u201cI thought, if I worked in kitchens, I\u2019d never go hungry.\u201d Food, however, quickly became more than a means of sustenance. It became a source of fascination and, ultimately, an avenue for storytelling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Raised in a household where food was both a necessity and a symbol of resilience, Commandant was instilled with an appreciation for the power of sustenance. His father, deeply connected to their Mohawk heritage, taught him that food is sacred, not to be wasted, and that harvesting should always be done with respect. These early lessons would later form the foundation of his cuisine. \u201cTake what you need to sustain yourself, and leave some for the next generation,\u201d he says, echoing a philosophy that has guided his approach to both cooking and leadership.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Like many aspiring chefs, Commandant initially sought formal training in an unrelated field\u2014journalism. But it was in the kitchens of Toronto, where he worked part-time in the late 1990s, that he found his true calling. \u201cThere\u2019s an energy in a kitchen that\u2019s addictive,\u201d he says. \u201cThe pace, the creativity, the problem-solving\u2014it became clear that this was where I needed to be.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yet, as an Indigenous chef entering the industry, he quickly realized that representation was lacking. \u201cAt the time, being an Indigenous chef wasn\u2019t something you advertised,\u201d he explains. \u201cThere was a stigma attached to it, and a lot of us felt the need to just blend in.\u201d That began to change as he reconnected with his roots and found his voice\u2014not just as a chef, but as an advocate for Indigenous food knowledge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A Defining Moment for Indigenous Cuisine<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

For Commandant, there has never been a better time for Indigenous cuisine to take centre stage. With consumer interest in Canadian experiences at an all-time high, the demand for Indigenous culinary tourism is surging. He sees a rare and urgent opportunity for Indigenous chefs and food entrepreneurs to redefine the national food landscape. \u201cThis is our moment,\u201d he says. \u201cPeople are actively looking for authentic, locally-rooted dining experiences, and Indigenous cuisine offers a depth of storytelling and connection that no other food movement can replicate. This isn\u2019t just a culinary moment\u2014it\u2019s a cultural shift. Indigenous food isn\u2019t niche; it\u2019s foundational. And now is the time to ensure it claims its rightful place in our national dialogue.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But this isn\u2019t just about food\u2014it\u2019s about a complete ecosystem. Indigenous culinary traditions are inextricably linked to sustainable agriculture, ethical foraging, and a holistic approach to hospitality. Commandant emphasizes that the industry must balance growth with responsibility, ensuring that Indigenous foodways remain true to their origins while adapting to modern demands. \u201cThe challenge is scalability,\u201d he explains. \u201cOur ingredients\u2014wild game, foraged plants, traditional grains\u2014are not mass-produced, and they shouldn\u2019t be. We have a sacred supply of certain key ingredients, and the point is not to over-harvest them to meet market demand. It\u2019s about maintaining that balance\u2014honouring the ingredients while also finding ways to make the cuisine more accessible. But that means we need to innovate, educating consumers while finding sustainable ways to bring these flavours to a wider audience.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Commandant envisions Indigenous cuisine as a cornerstone of Canada\u2019s evolving food identity, not a passing trend. Through his work at the NAC, Commandant has helped introduce Indigenous ingredients to a new audience. He works closely with his team\u2014many of whom are non-Indigenous\u2014to educate them on the history and significance of Indigenous food traditions. \u201cWe\u2019re not all just wild rice, cranberries, and salmon,\u201d he emphasizes. \u201cOur food culture is as vast and diverse as the land itself. Maybe it\u2019s not about using the exact same ingredient but about creating an experience that respects the original while allowing for sustainable substitutes. That\u2019s the challenge\u2014how do we bring Indigenous cuisine into a broader culinary conversation without sacrificing its integrity?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Leading Through Consensus<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Commandant\u2019s approach to leadership is deeply influenced by his Mohawk heritage. \u201cIn our communities, leadership isn\u2019t about hierarchy or majority\u2014it\u2019s about consensus,\u201d he explains. \u201cIf nine people say no, and one person says yes, we don\u2019t shut that one person down; we listen. Maybe they see something the rest of us don\u2019t.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This concept of \u201caggressive listening,\u201d as he calls it, has shaped the way he manages his kitchen and mentors his team. \u201cIt\u2019s about giving people space to be heard, even when their perspective challenges the status quo.\u201d This, he believes, leads to stronger teams and better outcomes. \u201cWhen you create an environment where people feel valued, they invest more in the work they\u2019re doing. They care more.\u201d He recalls one of the most pivotal moments of his career\u2014a crisis that tested his ability to lead under pressure. A few years ago, a fire broke out at the NAC, leading to chaos in the kitchen. In the midst of the
emergency, the executive chef suffered a cardiac event. \u201cThat was the moment I realized leadership isn\u2019t just about managing a team\u2014it\u2019s about being the person they look to in times of uncertainty,\u201d he says. \u201cI had to remain calm because they needed me to.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Commandant, leadership is also about fostering respect\u2014both in and out of the kitchen. \u201cA simple \u2018good morning\u2019 can set the tone for the entire day,\u201d he says. \u201cAcknowledging your team as people first is key. When people feel seen and heard, they perform at their best.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Next Generation<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

As the Indigenous culinary movement gains traction, Commandant is optimistic about its future. \u201cWe\u2019re at a turning point,\u201d he says. \u201cFor the first time, we\u2019re seeing Indigenous chefs not just existing within the industry but thriving. Our food is no longer an afterthought\u2014it\u2019s being recognized for what it is: an essential part of Canada\u2019s culinary identity.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He credits organizations like ITAC and ICAN and events like RC Show for helping to elevate Indigenous cuisine on a national scale. At this year\u2019s show, he will be leading a Chef\u2019s Table discussion on appreciation versus appropriation, a topic he believes is critical to advancing Indigenous foodways in a respectful manner. \u201cIt\u2019s not about gatekeeping,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s about education. It\u2019s about creating
opportunities for non-Indigenous chefs to engage with our food in a way that honours its origins.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But for Commandant, the most rewarding aspect of his work is mentorship. \u201cIf one of my cooks leaves my kitchen because they\u2019ve outgrown it and are ready for a bigger role, I\u2019ve done my job,\u201d he says. \u201cI want to see more Indigenous chefs leading kitchens, running their own restaurants, and teaching the next generation.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

His vision is clear: a future where Indigenous ingredients and food traditions are not seen as niche, but as a fundamental part of Canadian cuisine. \u201cFood is one of the most powerful ways we tell our stories,\u201d he says. \u201cBy keeping these traditions alive, we\u2019re not just preserving history\u2014we\u2019re shaping the future.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Follow Chef Chris CommandantIG: @mohawk_chef<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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